A dream come true: a stay in a lighthouse-inn in the middle of the Saint Lawrence River

I never knew that a dream of mine was to stay overnight in a 19^th century lighthouse until my friend, Alexander Reford, of the Reford Gardens/Les Jardins de Metis, told me that such an adventure was indeed possible off the coast of Rivière-du-Loup in the Lower Saint Lawrence region. Ever since he put that nugget in my head it became an obsession of mine to make it happen. My window of opportunity opened in mid-June for this season’s opening weekend at the Pot a l’Eau-de-Vie lighthouse. And if any such opportunity should float your way, I would highly recommend that you seize it as well.

Guests enjoy the view from the Duvetnor lighthouse expansive observation decks
Photo: Simon Laroche

The story of this lighthouse is steeped in history. Located on the Les Pèlerins archipelago; a collection of islands sitting about mid-way across the mighty Saint Lawrence river, this section of the waterway had proven so treacherous to marine traffic, that it laid claim to hundreds of shipwrecks prior to the lighthouse construction in 1862. Following this, it was inhabited by a series of lighthouse keepers and their families, whose main function was to keep the tower’s circular light glowing throughout the months of March to December which allowed boats to safely sail to and from Quebec City (and Montreal) to Europe and elsewhere.

The lighthouse continued this mission until 1964 when it was abandoned and replaced by more modern and automated warnings systems.

Fortunately for fantasy lighthouse keepers like ourselves, it was restored in 1989 by the Société Duvetnor, lead by biologist, Jean Bédard. Part of an initiative by his team is to protect the threatened bird colonies that made these so called “Brandy Pot Islands” home. The islands were named by seamen for the brandy-coloured foam produced by the swirling waters in some of the bays.

The Duvetnor passenger boat docks on the Potà l’Eau-de-Vie island rocky shoreline where guests
disembark via a gang plank
Photo: Patric Nadeau

Resurrecting the lighthouse as a three-roomed inn was part of their not-for-profit business plan to make this venture economically sustainable. Other sources of revenue (aside from charitable donations from like-minded supporters and government grants) include revenues from the rentals of seven chalets, twenty-five campsites spread over four sites and nine rooms in an auberge on Île aux Lièvres (another one of the nearby cluster of islands run by Duvetnor).

One additional source of income comes from the sale of precious eider down meticulously collected from the nests of the local eider colonies by specially-trained teams of volunteers during certain weeks of the season, and then sold to Nordic countries who incorporate them into down comforters, pillows and winter coats.

Daily ecological and educational tours to the islands are very popular with wildlife photographers and also generate revenue.

Razorbills are but one of the many species that are
commonly seen on the island within this protected bird sanctuary
Photo: Nicolas Gagnon

Our journey to the lighthouse begins near the Rivière-du-Loup/ Saint–Siméon  ferry terminal in Rivière-du-Loup. Here visitors are greeted with dedicated boat transit to the island which not only transports the overnight guests of the day, but goods required (food, etc) to keep the lighthouse-inn functioning. The crossings can be turbulent depending on the weather and water currents so be prepared to be bounced around as part of this unique adventure. Nonetheless, the Duvetnor crew’s attention to passenger safety is admirable and comforting.

The initial crossing also includes a twenty-minute tour of the islands which surround the lighthouse and is truly awe-inspiring as you take in the cacophony of bird calls created by tens of thousands of feathered occupants including those of Razorbills, Common Murres and Black Guillemot, Common Eider, Double-crested Cormorant, and others, whom either call these protected islands home throughout the year or for certain portions of their migration periods. Both amateur birders and ornithologists find this part of the experience heavenly.

Duvetnor guide explains some of the bird species found on the surrounding islands during a boat tour of the islands
Photo: AJ Twist

Upon completion of this tour, the boat gingerly connects with a steel jetty that extends to our passenger craft from the rocky shore. One by one passengers disembark along the gang plank to dry land. Visitors are restricted to one bag per couple and this is partly why. Maneuvering a heavy suitcase up this ramp is no easy task (ask me, I tried) so travel light. Afterall, most are only staying for one night.

After everyone (generally there are only 6 visitors at a time since the lighthouse only sleeps this number) is safely ashore, our island hosts, Chef Aurore and John, give us a quick rundown of where we are, the history of the lighthouse and the island dos and don’ts. Then we climb the steep wooden staircase to the lighthouse which sits majestically on the highest point of the area. Here we are assigned our rooms which all include a Queen-sized bed (be sure you are comfortable sleeping cheek to cheek with your trip companion), and a small sink. A shared bathroom sits off to the side of the dining room which is furnished as if it were 1862 complete with a cast iron stove and a rural-styled communal dining room table.

Thousands of birds thrive on the cluster of islands on Les Pèlerins archipelago as run by the Société Duvetnor
Photo: AJ Twist

We are shown the entrance to the lighthouse tower and are encouraged to head up to the top through the circular staircase at least once during our stay. We did and the panoramic view from there was actually one of the highlights of our trip!

Since our departure had been at 12:30 pm (try to have lunch before embarking or bring your own to have on the island as this is not provided) we arrived around 1:30pm. By the time we had settled into our rooms it was now about 2:30 pm with time to set off exploring the area.

Depending on the time of season for your visit, some of the myriad of hiking trails may be closed due to the nesting period of the islands’ principal occupants: the birds. Humans are second class citizens in this world. However, within the immediate vicinity of the lighthouse there are pathways to two lookouts where you can feel quite immersed within nature.

Following your afternoon exploring the lighthouse and the island, some guests enjoy lounging on the expansive decks sipping wine or cocktails (you must bring your own drinks and wine as only modest snacks or cold water are provided between meals) while wafts of the coming meal arise from the cooking quarters below.

The dining room is decorated with rural-styled furniture in the spirit of its 1862 roots
Photo: AJ Twist

Dinner is served around 6:30 pm and is surprisingly gourmet considering our remote location. Most dietary restrictions are considered (vegetarian, lactose-free) if the staff is alerted as part of your reservation process.

We began our four-course meal with a delicious carrot and ginger soup, followed by a delicate appetizer of seared scallops, asparagus, and citrus salad while the main course consisted of a choice of salmon or duck breast this evening and was topped off with a fresh-fruit yogurt parfait for dessert. All of this food was heroically delivered on large serving trays up the aforementioned staircase and my heart went out to the chef and server with every course (and condiment request!)

After dinner our dining companions scattered to various exterior vantage points to take in the exquisite sunset that filled the vistas with a warm, golden light. This is the perfect time to snap your potential National Geographic award-winning photo of the lighthouse!

There are three spartan but comfortable bedrooms in the lighthouse fitted out with Queen-sized beds and a sink. Guests share a communal bathroom with shower
Photo: AJ Twist

Sleep is easy here as the nighttime is blanketed with a silence one only finds on an isolated island in Saint Lawrence.

Waking up to the early light is accompanied by the slow crescendo of our feathered friends which eventually builds to an orchestra of bird-calls filling the crisp morning air.

At 7:30am coffee and fresh croissants and chocolatines are served simply to keep you caffeinated and sustained until a hearty brunch is served around 10:30. This includes fresh fruits, omelets, bacon, sausages and John’s secret recipe of new potatoes with rosemary.

Around 1pm the boat arrives with the next load of guests to be swapped with ourselves for our return voyage. We were advised to keep our eyes peeled for whales as some were spotted on the trip over.

The Duvetnor lighthouse trip belongs on your bucket list as well but, with limited rooms within a limited season, you would be wise to reserve as soon as you finish reading this. Ships ahoy, maties!

More information about the lighthouse stays, the auberge, chalet and campsite rentals can be found at Duvetnor.com. Reservations are by phone only.

A.J. Twist is a Montreal-based travel writer and photographer. [email protected]    Ajtwist.net

The panoramic view from the lighthouse tower sits atop a circular staircase
and is accessible to guests
Photo: AJ Twist