Plenty of people recommend Edinburgh as a “must visit” city. Sometimes third party endorsements can produce unrealistic expectations. Where Edinburgh is concerned, the favourable comments were 100% accurate. It is a lovely city. Sure, the much-hyped Royal Mile is largely a tourist trap – but then we might draw similar conclusions about parts of Old Montreal or Old Quebec. A visitor can do their research in advance (we did) and visit inspiring locations like the beautiful area known as Dean’s Village which is a tranquil little valley not far from the city centre. It features a lovely gurgling brook, a canopy of mature trees and beautifully restored homes in what used to be an old mill town. It is a charming oasis of calm – and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Dean’s Village

Dean’s Village is a tranquil little valley not far from the
city centre

The Travel: We arrived in town from London via LNER from London’s King Cross rail terminal www.lner.co.uk/.  LNER is promoted as the best way to travel but the overall experience is less impressive when compared to a VIA train in Canada. The food that is available consists of a few snacks or a prepackaged sandwich, not exactly stellar for a four-hour train trip, and the service was sporadic and perfunctory.

The Hotel:  We stayed at the Virgin Hotel www.virginhotels.com/edinburgh/the-hotel/ located just below the famous Edinburgh Castle, one block away from the Royal Mile. It is in the perfect location and the staff are outstanding in every respect.  The hotel personnel clearly understand that they are in the hospitality business and they are unfailingly helpful. Consistent with the Virgin brand, the hotel has multiple amenities and lovely chambers or suites – they don’t call them “rooms”!

The Royal Mile:  It is worth walking along the Royal Mile but most of the stores are a waste of time. A slow meandering stroll from the iconic Edinburgh Castle www.edinburghcastle.scot/ downhill to the Palace of Holyroodhouse www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse/ is filled with photo opportunities. We booked a guided tour of the world famous Castle, a worthwhile investment. The guides are knowledgeable and engaging. It is wise to reserve ahead of time as things get very busy and the grounds can become crowded from 11am to 3pm. We couldn’t get into the grounds of Holyroodhouse because they were preparing for a visit by Prince Edward, Duke of Edinburgh but it is possible to visit the Scottish parliament building nearby or, if you are energetic, climb up to the incredible vista at Arthur’s Seat which overlooks the city.

Scotch Whiskey Experience

The writer recommends the Scotch Whiskey Experience, surrounded by 3,000 bottles of scotch

Slainte Mhath: We did not have enough time to head into the highlands or explore the dozens of distilleries around Speyside. That will have to wait! However, we highly recommend the Scotch Whisky Experience www.scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk/.   It is a fun opportunity to allow a resident scotch expert to explain all the nuances of the various regions and distilleries. It is perfect for both a connoisseur or a beginner, even someone who isn’t sure if they like scotch. It is also a fantastic place to meet people – we ran into a couple from Montreal who asked; “aren’t you that guy from Welcome Hall Mission?” Even in Edinburgh it was impossible to hide! The grand finale is a tasting experience in a room surrounded by 3,300 bottles of scotch that were acquired from a serious collector.

Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Yacht Britannia is permanently moored in Leith, a short tram of cab ride from downtown

Go To Leith: This is the port area that can be accessed by tram or cab. It is the home of the Royal Yacht Britannia www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/, a vessel with a storied past that is parked in retirement here. It is now a museum that is worth visiting, if only to have the opportunity to peer into the past glories of a monarch’s lifestyle that combined official responsibilities with tranquil games nights with the family. The dining room is all set – ready to host a gala state dinner.

Incredible Hidden Restaurant: Yes, it is literally hidden.  This why the concierge at the Virgin Hotel is essential.  The Devino Wine Bar & Restaurant www.divinoedinburgh.com/#1  is an old town gem that features outstanding authentic Italian cuisine and an impressive wine list.  This is one of those rare places that combines great service with awesome, creatively presented food.

Can you see everything in Edinburgh in three days? Maybe not – but it is possible to see a lot of things in this interesting and compact city. But there is also all the rest of Scotland – waiting to be discovered on another trip!