Cascais is more than Lisbon’s beach town neighbour

If you have ever seen a picture of Cascais, Portugal there is a high degree of likelihood it has been of the blue, white and red Santa Marta lighthouse that sits on the edge of the Atlantic ocean at the estuary of the River Tagus. Capturing that image alone is enough to entice many to this inviting seaside destination a mere twenty minutes outside of Lisbon. However, this beach town and its environs are so much more than this single photogenic memento.

The Santa Marta lighthouse is the most famous landmark in Cascais  
Photo: Cascais Visitors & Convention Bureau

Being a frequent visitor to Lisbon over the last few years, Cascais has often come across my radar as a must-see due to the allure of its sandy beaches and rumours of celebrity ex-pats (Madonna? Harrison Ford?) having bought homes in the area. Layer upon that, stories of wonderful restaurants and parks filling the city centre, I felt it was time to have a gander myself.

One hotel that constantly appeared in my Internet searches and articles by travel writers who had come before me was the Hotel Farol. Each one was extremely complimentary and, since “farol” is Portuguese for lighthouse, it seemed perfectly well-suited for this sojourn.

Many of the Hotel Farol’s guest rooms feature views of the Atlantic Ocean
Photo: Hotel Farol

The Hotel Farol is a family-owned, five star tribute to the best that this town has to offer in terms of hospitality (the evening turn-down service includes a visit from room service with complimentary kambucha and delicious Portuguese biscuits), location (the farol is visible from many of the 33 guest rooms) and the cuisine which offers both a Mediterranean-fusion restaurant as well as one that features the area’s best sushi. (Oh, did I mention that it is a restored and heritage-protected 19^th Century manor that sits so close to the ocean that during the summer months schools of dolphins can be seen from its seawater pool? Plus the hotel is a member of the luxury brand of the Preferred Hotels and Resorts loyalty program. Therefore, it’s no wonder that destination wedding and corporate board meeting planners have this hotel on their short-list!

Panoramic ocean view from the Hotel Farol’s dining room 
Photo: Hotel Farol

In terms of its interior, a rotating eclectic art collection featuring local artists or “ambassadors” will tempt both seasoned and novice collectors as well and you may well find yourself invited to the latest unveiling if your timing is right.

And while there are an abundance of restaurants within a ten minute walk either in the town centre or the nearby marina complex, most guests opt to take advantage of the wonderful cuisine and panoramic ocean views offered on the hotel’s main floor. Certainly after your first meal here you to will be sold not only on the convenience but on the exquisite flavours produced by this kitchen be it for their elaborate breakfast buffet (be sure to try the fresh honeycomb), a creative selection of sushi for lunch or any number of local seafood specialties for dinner. Here they have a local expression “if the fish was not caught within the last five hours, then it is not considered fresh!”

In order for guests to work off some of those scrumptious calories, the Hotel Farol provides complimentary bicycles upon which cyclists can avail themselves of over 80 KMs of bike trails (and ever expanding) that run throughout the city and along the Atlantic coast.

The Boco do Inferno can be seen while cycling along the Cascais coast 
Photo: Cascais Visitors & Convention Bureau

Riders can head southward all the way down to Belem or Lisbon or head in the opposite direction and take in the legendary Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth) seaside caves which feature quite spectacular sprays of crashing waves for that perfect sunset photo! Rather than human-powered bikes we opted for electric power by renting a couple of e-bikes at Aqua-Start located at the marina complex.

Alternatively, we could have packed our golf clubs and played at one of the four nearby golf clubs or perhaps gone for a horse ride. Tennis was also on hand as well at the local sporting clubs.

Later on, while on our own two feet, we took a stroll throughout the mosaic-tiled sidewalks of the town itself including a stop at the country’s most famous ice-cream emporium, Santini’s, on the main drag, Avenida Valbom.

Cascais Carousel 
Photo: A.J. Twist

Now in its 3^rd generation of ice cream makers, originally from Italy, Santini’s handmade ice cream recipe is one of Portugal’s most guarded secrets! Ice cream aficionados would be hard-pressed to find better cold treats anywhere and if there is only one thing that you do in Cascais, it must be a stop at Santini’s!

Strolling a little further into the city visitors will find back alleys bustling with small cafes and restaurants such as the beautiful Bougain Garden Bar nestled within the luscious terraces of The Pérgola House, one of the first tourist accommodations in Cascais. Or perhaps you might stumble across the gorgeous antique carousel in the city’s central park where children’s laughter fills the air.

Beach scene in Cascais 
Photo: Cascais Visitors & Convention Bureau

Down on the town’s beach front, competitive games of volley ball will likely be taking place which can either be watched from one of the surrounding bars or maybe from the comfort of your beach umbrella. Anchored fishing trawlers will be dotting the bay here while fishermen can be seen on the busy warf mending nets or loading supplies. We took a turn on the ferris wheel for a bird’s-eye view of both the waterfront as well the downtown core.

History buffs will be enthralled with a number of historic sites including the Cidadela de Cascais which is the 15th century fort that guarded the western end of the Tagus river. Day-trips to nearby Sintra are also a must for those who love colourful castles with a Gothic twist.

Whatever your fancy, a stay in Cascais is likely to please most traveling types whether or not you decide to work on your tan!

A.J. Twist is a Montreal-based travel writer and photographer. Ajtwist.net [email protected]