St. John’s Newfoundland is the place to be!

As our Canadian nationalism hits a stride not seen for a generation, Canadians are quickly adjusting their travel plans to tick off bucket list destinations within our own borders. One such destination is St. John’s Newfoundland and, with its current suite of hospitality options, there may never have been a better time to check it off your list.

Many visitors seek out the cliffside houses along the “The Battery” for a neighbourhood walk
  Photo: Destination Newfoundland

As a Montrealer, you may be surprised to know that a direct flight to St. John’s can have you enjoying a pint in one of the myriad of pubs on George Street (a street legendary for having the highest per capita of pubs and bars in North America) within two and half hours of leaving your home. Sounds like more an incentive than an impediment to visiting “The Rock”, as it is affectionately called by its locals.

In fact, foodies will also be salivating to learn that some of the best plates found east of Quebec City can be found within a few city blocks of downtown St. John’s. Plus, with whale watching tours or side trips to fishing villages with curious names such as Quidi Vidi, St. John’s delivers the whole package!

Since its opening in 2019, the Alt Hotel St. John’s  lobby has become the city’s unofficial town square with its Terre Cafe and friendly front desk staff welcoming visitors, locals and four legged guests alike.
Photo: Atl Hotel St. John’s

But what about hotels you might ask? Surprisingly, one hotel that has become ground central for the city, is a name that is already familiar to most Quebecers, The Alt Hotel (a member of the Germain chain of boutique hotels). The Alt St. John’s sits directly on the shores of St. John’s Harbour with some rooms featuring a view of Signal Hill in the distance.

Should you decide to follow a seasoned travel writer’s lead and do check into The Alt, you will be greeted at the front desk by the Newfoundland welcoming trait that has now become world-famous thanks to the wildly successful play, Come From Away. My, these people are friendly and it truly seems genuine! Not only that, this hotel lobby has a buzz about it that I am not sure I have experienced anywhere else. It feels like the city’s town square as there is a constant early morning flow of locals entering the lobby café to fetch their morning lattes and absolutely exquisite home-baked pastries. Even four legged pets are welcome guests here whom themselves know that there are free doggie treats for the asking!

Many rooms at the Atl Hotel St. John’s offer stunning views of the busy harbour and signal Hill in the distance 
Photo: Atl Hotel St. John’s

All of this is quite remarkable when you consider that this Quebec-based hotelier entered this market only in 2019 when they had the determination to build a very modern structure on a piece of hallowed land that once housed the Marshall Brothers’ Store until the 1920’s. Historians note that the building site itself dates back to the early 1800’s and was home of one the city’s original structures on Water Street (considered the continent’s oldest commercial thoroughfare). City approval for the new architectural project was not easy but the result has been embraced by the community as evidenced by not only the popularity of their café, Terre Café, but also by the success of their award-winning Terre Restaurant.

Signal Hill is an historic site with panoramic views of St. John’s and the Atlantic Ocean. Sometimes icebergs can be spotted floating by
  Photo: Destination Newfoundland

According to Clarah Germain, Director of Guest Experience, Germain Hotels, “We made it a point to get involved in the community from day one and we have never looked back”.

Indeed, with a chef-led flower, herb and vegetable garden growing on the hotel’s terrace where guests can lounge on Adirondack chairs and watch the massive cargo or cruise ships sail by (and hosts the occasional summer wedding), there is something homey about the entire experience here.

The Alt Hotel St. John’s offers 148 reasonably priced, 225 square foot rooms, some with a breath-taking harbour view, spaced over two floors. With the aforementioned lobby, café and restaurant (which also serves a full country breakfast), one really does not have to step foot outside of the hotel. However, Newfoundland awaits you, so best to hop into your rented car and experience The Rock!

“The Rooms” is a hilltop museum and art gallery which towers over the city 
  Photo: Destination Newfoundland

As I had no set exploration agenda for this trip, when Ms. Germain suggested I drive down to Ferryland, I jumped at the idea simply based on the name alone. As the site a fairy-tale lighthouse that sits high on a bluff, she suggested that the drive down the island’s eastern coast, would be well worth my effort. She was right!

The husband and wife duo, Chef Kyle Puddester and Chef Kayla O’Brien, run The Fork Restaurant, about a 30 minute drive south east of St. John’s and features a popular weekend brunch  
Photo:  A.J. Twist

Ferryland is about an hour’s drive south of St. John. along its eastern coast. When I reached the town and headed to the lighthouse road, I could not believe that I was the only tourist to be seen! As I parked my car and made the twenty-minute trek to the lighthouse itself I was immersed in a low brush forest with waves crashing below. Arriving at the lighthouse made me think back to the busloads of tourists I had experienced at Nova Scotia’s Peggy Cove a year earlier and how this felt like a best-kept secret! I suspect this is not always the case in the height of the summer season but even under those conditions there is plenty of space to have an undisturbed picnic within the grounds.

An actual archeological dig along with an archeological museum are additional attractions here in Ferryland which will pique your curiosity about the history of this island.

My local guide, Ms. Germain, had also emphatically recommended that I try a restaurant along the coast in a town called Mobile which lies about midway between St. John’s and Ferryland. The Fork Restaurant is run by a chef husband and wife duo, Chef Kyle Puddester and Chef Kayla O’Brien. Ms. Germain assured me that their weekend brunch was the stuff dreams were made of and that was no exaggeration! I mean, when was the last time you had “Pumpkin Pie French Toast” with salted caramel, pecans and whipped cream? Never, right? Well, you can have that here with a side of a fish cake and hashbrowns, if you want to go whole hog. Spectacular!

The Quidi Vidi Brewing Company sits on the shores of a picturesque inlet with their legendary fish and chips on the menu and their wide selection of home brews on tap
  Photo: Destination Newfoundland

Another side trip that I enjoyed was a short 15 minute drive north east of St. John’s to the tiny town of Quidi Vidi. Here the Quidi Vidi Brewing Company is a big draw which sits on an inlet off the Atlantic Ocean with active fishing boats lining the docks. The brewery offers a wide selection of in-house crafted beers and is renowned for its fish and chips (which were pretty darn good, I must say). Also located in Quidi Vidi is the Mallard Cottage which also has its share of fans for its cuisine and quaint, rustic ambiance.

Hiking trails run throughout the rocky parklands that surround Signal Hill  
Photo: Atl Hotel St. John’s

Back in St. John’s, a bit of walking along city streets featuring vibrant-coloured wood-paneled homes (also known as “Jelly Bean Houses”) can lead you to the famous city art gallery and museum called “The Rooms”. This is a large cultural facility (now celebrating its 25^th anniversary) that originally generated some controversy as it was built on a historic location. However, it has endured as one of the primary tourist attractions of the city along with Signal Hill (also a must-visit that will appeal to ambitious hikers, as well). Another interesting walk is along “the Battery”, a neighbourhood of tiny homes clinging off cliffs along The Narrows.

But enough exercise. Let’s get back to eating!

Thirsty visitors often find their way to George Street which has the highest per capital bars and pubs in North America 
Photo: Destination Newfoundland

Rabble Restaurant, a short walk along Water St. from The Alt, is a relative newcomer to the St. John’s food scene. Helmed by Todd Perrin (formerly of the aforementioned Mallard Cottage), Rabble features a locally-sourced menu with such favourites as Grilled Chicken Liver Skewers, Scallop Ceviche or the Moules et Frites with Bouillabaisse and herbs, all served within a “country kitchen” feel of a room. Well worth a stop for a memorable dinner.

Terre Restaurant in the Alt Hotel St. John’s is helmed by Chef Matthew Swift, a former Montrealer who worked previously at Vin Papillon and Joe Beef.
Photo: Atl Hotel St. John’s

Finally, back where we started, at The Alt Hotel St. John’s, herein lies a truly exceptional culinary experience in the Terre Restaurant as lead by former Montrealer, Chef Matthew Swift, whose previous stints at Joe Beef and Le Vin Papillon are serving diners well here.

In a table-side interview, Chef Swift talked about some of the challenges local chefs face here in sourcing higher quality food ingredients previously not in much demand. He has had to seek out individual suppliers for produce and meats that do not have a market with some of the mainstream kitchens. However, his efforts have been rewarded with adoring guests and rave reviews. Diners who choose the chef’s option “Let us cook for you” are treated to a delightful tasting menu with the best that the province’s land or sea have to offer. And if the Terre Café is the place to be for morning coffees or light lunches, Terre Restaurant is most certainly the height of the city’s social scene at night!

Newfoundland may seem like this mysterious rock hanging off the northeast corner of our nation but we can all feel at home here from wherever we hail. Knock this destination off your bucket list soon!

A.J. Twist is a Montreal-based travel writer and photographer.  [email protected]  Ajtwist.net