Take a photo at Lovers’ Arch en route to Taste the TidesA Bay of Fundy Feast for the Senses Michele Peterson September 4, 2024 379 Culinary and Coastal Adventures in New Brunswick Dine on the ocean floor at Taste the Tides Photo: Michele Peterson The Bay of Fundy is a place most often defined by superlatives. Home to the largest tides ever recorded on earth, it has rock formations created 750 million years ago and ancient cliffs once taller than the Rockies. The Fundy Biosphere Region is so biologically diverse and culturally significant, it’s even been recognized by UNESCO. But for me, as I dine with my feet in the sand at low tide, the most remarkable thing about this ocean bay that stretches between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, is the silence. Here, at Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, a 30-minute drive from Moncton, when the tidal waters approach to blanket the cinnamon sand of the ocean floor, they glide silently. There’s no swoosh of cresting waves or thundering sounds. Instead, it’s a gentle, almost meditative whisper. Chef Anthony Seamoneat Hopewell Rocks Photo: Francisco Sanchez Enjoy Magnetic Hill wine pairings with the 3-course Taste the Tides meal Photo: Francisco Sanchez We’re at Taste the Tides, a new dining experience that takes place on special dates from early June to mid-September during at low tide at Hopewell Cape. During this unique event, tables draped in white linens are set directly on the ocean floor within a cove surrounded by towering sandstone cliffs shaped by millennia of tidal forces. There, guests enjoy a sophisticated 3-course dinner showcasing local Bay of Fundy ingredients. But I suspect we won’t be dallying over dessert. When the ocean tide rolls in, it will eventually reach the height of a four-storey building. And fish will be swimming where we’re now sitting. A Spectacular Natural Marine Wonder Our Taste the Tides experience actually began an hour earlier with a guided tour of the Hopewell Rocks Interpretation Centre to learn more about the area’s unique ecological characteristics, its tidal phenomena and biodiversity. Our group discovered that tectonic plate movements and glacial activity formed the Bay of Fundy, creating its unique funnel shape and causing the high tides it’s known for today. Immerse yourself in the views and fine cuisine at this upscale dining experience at Hopewell Rocks Photo: Francisco Sanchez Remarkably, every six hours, 100 billion tonnes of water, pulled by the sun’s and moon’s gravity, rises 16 metres (52 feet) to fill the basin. “The amount of water in one tide change equals the water that flows over Niagara Falls (both the Canadian and US sides) in one year and nine months,” explained Heather, our Hopewell Rocks guide. These tides also create diverse and rich ecosystems, supporting a wide variety of marine life. The mudflats and salt marshes provide important habitat for millions of shorebirds. “Up to 90% of the world’s semipalmated sandpipers come here to fuel up on mud shrimp during migration,” said Heather. “Their 72 hours of non-stop flying is one of the world’s great feats of migration.” From the lookout, it was just a short walk and steep descent down a staircase to the tidal flats and famous “flowerpot” rock formations of Hopewell Cape. These formations, created during the Precambrian era, are made of sandstone and conglomerate containing a mix of pebbles, gravel, and finer sediments. Over millions of years, the powerful tides of the Bay of Fundy have sculpted their distinctive shapes. We paused at Lover’s Arch, a rock formation that’s popular for photos. That morning, we’d watched kayakers paddle beneath the arch. Now, we stood on dry land where they’d paddled. Led by our guide, we rounded a corner to Castle Cove, where a private dining area waited beneath towering cliffs glowing gold in the sunset. A Low Tide Dining Experience Fresh salad paired with Magnetic Hill wine at Taste the Tides Photo: Francisco Sanchez There we’re greeted with flutes of sparkling wine as we make our way to tables adorned with candles, white tablecloths and polished silverware. It’s the ideal place to enjoy a charcuterie tray of locally-sourced appetizers while we wait for the three-course meal prepared by Hopewell Rocks’ Executive Chef Anthony Seamone and team to begin. The soaring seabirds, tidal pools dotted with marine life such as crabs, and rock formations topped by scrubby trees create an ever-evolving slideshow of nature’s power and beauty. Our first course is a refreshing salad of greens, fresh local strawberries, artisanal cheese, roasted pecans and vinaigrette. My dining companion’s main is a bountiful lobster and seafood boil. This dish is a feast of flavours, featuring the sweet taste of whole lobster, the briny richness of mussels, tender baby potatoes, and buttery corn-on-the-cob. My menu choice, the deconstructed seafood ravioli, offers a luxurious combination of flavours and textures with a touch of the ocean’s freshness. The tender house-made noodles provide the perfect base for the Bay of Fundy lobster, plump scallops, and juicy shrimp in a creamy Boursin sauce. A classic strawberry shortcakePhoto: Francisco Sanchez Other enticing mains enjoyed at neighbouring tables include grilled beef tenderloin with Hasselback potatoes, and a vegetarian risotto with asparagus, earthy mushrooms and pumpkin brittle. Dessert is a classic strawberry shortcake featuring a homemade biscuit topped with local berries, fresh herbs in dandelion syrup topped with fresh-whipped cream. Highlights of the Magnetic Hill Winery pairings include a clean, crisp Osceola white wine reminiscent of Riesling and an elegant Marquette wine with notes of cherry, blackcurrant, and blackberry, accented by subtle hints of spice. The wines showcase grapes that thrive in the unique New Brunswick terroir. It’s a remarkable evening of exceptional cuisine in a monumental setting. Explorations on Fundy Coastal Drive Historic lighthouse at Cape Enrage in New Brunswick The next day, we continue our shoreline adventures south along the 460 km Fundy Coastal Drive where each bend unveils a new experience. First up is Cape Enrage, a dramatic promontory named for the turbulent waters below its steep cliffs. It’s one of the most hazardous areas in the upper Bay of Fundy. Although dense fog envelopes the historic lighthouse during our visit, it’s impossible to miss the foghorn sounding a warning to mariners. Established in 1838, the lighthouse operation is a moody testament to the rugged lifestyle along this coast. Alma is a picturesque village set on the shores of the Bay of Fundy Photo: Francisco Sanchez While adrenaline seekers can indulge in zip-lining or rappelling, we opt for the more sedate pursuit of a boutique wine tasting at nearby Waterside Farms Cottage Winery. The outdoor tables are a prime spot to sample an oak-aged blueberry wine. Next up is the charming seaside village of Alma, tucked on the doorstep of Fundy National Park. Here, colourful fishing boats bob in the harbour at high tide. At low tide we walk the tidal flats collecting treasures revealed by the retreating waters. St. Andrews is a National Historic Site of Canada Photo: Francisco Sanchez The next morning, we journey onward to the elegant Algonquin Resort in St. Andrews. This historic resort offers luxurious accommodations and amenities, sophisticated dining as well as proximity to the St. Andrews Historic District. Designated a National Historic Site of Canada for its well-preserved clapboard buildings, classic architecture and other elements of an 18th-century settlement, this seaside resort town features spectacular views of Passamaquoddy Bay from the pier. Rich with plankton, this body of water is home to 15 types of whales including humpback, minke and the endangered right whale. For us, low tide provides one more opportunity to walk the ocean floor, creating the perfect end to our coastal odyssey. Chateau Moncton is situated on the banks of the Petitcodiac River and its impressive tidal bore Photo: Francisco Sanchez Travel Planner Château Moncton Hotel & Suites: It’s a 40-minute drive from Hopewell Rocks to Château Moncton, an upscale hotel set on the banks of the Petitcodiac River a short walk to downtown Moncton. It’s a prime spot for viewing the natural phenomenon of the tidal bore. www.chateaumoncton.ca Destination Moncton-Dieppe: Get trip and event ideas at www.destinationmonctondieppe.ca Tourism New Brunswick: Plan your travel at https://tourismnewbrunswick.ca Taste the Tides at Hopewell Rocks: Book online at www.parcsnbparks.info/en/events/taste-the-tides-a-low-tide-dining-experience The iconic Algonquin Resort St. Andrews-by-the-Sea Waterside Farms Cottage Winery: watersidewinery.ca The Algonquin Resort, St. Andrews-By-The-Sea: In addition to its luxurious guest rooms and suites, this historic resort features an award-winning 18-hole seaside golf course, full-service Aveda Spa, dining venues and indoor/outdoor swimming pools. www.algonquinresort.com Michele Peterson is an award-winning travel writer who specializes in food, drink and sun destinations. Her work has appeared in major magazines, guidebooks and travel anthologies. Get recipes, travel tips and inspiration on her A Taste for Travel blog or via Twitter/Instagram @atastefortravel Aerial view of Seeley beach and newly constructed portion of Fundy Parkway looking West
